Share Print. Expected availability: business days. Important Notice This item is noncancelable and nonreturnable. Add to Wish List. Calculate Shipping. Brewer Add to Cart. Live Chat. Reviews 0. Quick Compare. Packaging Info. See any errors on this page? If you enable AP Isolation every client on your guest Wi-Fi network will be totally isolated from each other. From a security standpoint this is great, as it keeps a malicious user from poking around on the clients of other users. In most home and small office applications there is little reason to isolate the APs.
Home networking: Everything you need to know
As counterintuitive as this is, you need to leave it set to Bridged. By default there is no security on the second AP. You can leave it as such temporarily for testing purposes we left ours open until the very end to save yourself from keying in the password on your test devices. Whether you opt to leave it open or not at this point, you need to click Save and then Apply Settings for the changes we made both in the previous section and this one to take effect.
Be patient, it can take up to a 2 minutes for changes to take effect. Now is a great time to confirm that nearby Wi-Fi devices can see both the primary and secondary APs. Opening the Wi-Fi interface on a smartphone is a great way to quickly check. The new bridge will be in the Bridging section with the IP and Subnet sections available.
Set the Subnet Mask to Note: thanks to reader Joel for pointing out this part and giving us the instructions to add to the tutorial. Leave the rest of the settings the same as seen in the screenshot below. In the services section we need to add a little bit of code to the DNSMasq section so that the router will properly assigned dynamic IP addresses to the devices connecting to the guest network.
Scroll down the DNSMasq section. You should have an IP within the range we specified with the above.
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Everything looks good. In which we'd place other peripherals too. The electrician in all his YOLO wisdom had decided that placing all this stuff in the home office made sense. It didn't and the main reason for that is that this is stuff you rarely touch once it's set up.
It's also stuff that may have audible fans too and by the time it's all put in a server cabinet which I'll get to soon , it's going to take up a bit of space. Particularly because this was an older house with s views on room sizes, space was important and it made absolutely no sense to unnecessarily chew up valuable bits of it in a location where it was at a premium.
I'd always wanted it out of the way in the garage or an otherwise non-premium location, preferably mounted up out of the way of everything else. Consequently, there was some arguing with the sparky followed by feet-stamping on his part and eventually acknowledgement that he ran the cables to wrong bloody place counter to instructions. So we got our way and it was re-run appropriately, but there's certainly a moral to the story here about not letting tradesmen make decisions like this and watching them like a hawk.
With that now under control, there were a bunch of other bits to order. I'm going to list everything here in one go because it will make it easy for others to replicate should they want to do the same build:. Let me explain the mechanics of these parts here for those who may not be familiar with all of this that included Scott and Cathy too so there was a bit of education throughout this and we'll start with the patch panel:.
This is simply the other end of the cables that connect to each of those in-wall access points.
Run Your Home Network Like a Coffee Shop for Easier Guest Access and Family-Friendly Browsing
It's a dumb unit in that it's not powered and it doesn't provide any form of communication, it's simply a row of female jacks. Next up is the switch which is both the most essential and most expensive component of the whole setup:. This is a USW and as the name suggests, there's 24 ports that'll enable everything to be networked up together.
It's a "power over ethernet" switch PoE which means that each of those ports can send power down over the Cat6 so devices like the in-wall jobs don't need a local power socket. The relationship to the patch panel above is simply that after each room is hard wired into the panel, it's "patched" into the switch so you end up with a bunch of short cables from one to the other I'll show what that ultimately looks like a little later on.
Strictly speaking, we didn't need 24 ports and could have gotten away with 16, but even in the immediate term we were going to use 10 of them and I could conceive of future requirements getting us close to the 16 limit on the next model down. Suffice to say that the former performs routing and firewall tasks whilst the latter contains the management software to configure the entire thing. You want both and cost wise they're a small part of the overall spend.
I was undecided as to whether we should go that direction or a similar offering for nearly twice the price as I frankly wasn't sure about the quality. But having now seen it, it's absolutely fine. I can see where extra money could go such as the quality of the hinges which make the door sag a little , but there's certainly no regrets. We went for a 6RU rack units, or how many standard height rack items it can fit rather than 4 because we need 1 for the patch panel, 1 for the switch and then plenty of room to sit other devices such as the modem and other networking bits.
Here's what it looked like once it arrived:.
It's hard building a network in a construction zone whilst trying to keep the dust out so I assembled the cabinet and patch panel outside then moved in with the box of Ubiquiti goodies:. But it also gave us an easy way of getting everything set up in the one place given the in-wall units were spread around the house and the patch panel wasn't yet wired. This is such a good spot for it - it's up out of the way in the room that'll be used as a gym so a bit of fan noise is ok and it fits just perfectly in that gap. It could go high whilst being easily accessible with a stool yet still have sufficient room for airflow above and provide plenty of room underneath for shelving.
Picture Yourself Networking Your Home Or Small Office Paperback
And everything that needed to go in that unit could easily fit, so that's what I did next:. About here, I started getting a bit jealous because this is looking very nice! The shelf in the rack is perfect for resting the Cloud Key on and we've got the NBN modem Australia's new National Broadband Network sitting bottom left, Optus' access point in the middle they're the ISP and the device apparently also provides phone connectivity and the security gateway on the right. And that's how I left it, waiting for the cabinet to be mounted on the wall it comes with the required brackets , the mass of cables you see in the background to be patched in and power outlets to be installed on the wall behind it and routed into the cabinet.
I left all the patch leads in place to make it crystal clear which ports I'd like wired in to keep everything neat:. I mentioned the electrician was a bit unreliable, right? A week later things still weren't patched but the cabinet had been mounted so I headed back over to take a look. I realised that all the Cat6 cables actually had RJ45s installed on them anyway which is pointless when they should be wired into the patch panel so whilst it wasn't going to be pretty, I could wire the whole thing in and then setup the in-wall units.
Here's how it now looked:. Then it was just a matter of adopting each of the access points.